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The Wait and the Flow extract   autobiography  
Issue Details: First known date: 2016... 2016 The Wait and the Flow
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'On the beach one day, as I was sliding my board back onto the tray of the ute and trying to clear my sinuses of salty water, an old neighbour who was passing by with his dog told me he didn't know what people like me saw in surfing. He said,'I see youse blokes out there day and night. Any time I go past you're just sittin there, bobbin around like moorin buoys. Tell me, Timmy, what's the point? And I didn't know how to answer. Almost every day of my life is shaped according to the weather, most acutely to swell, tide and wind direction. After surfing for fifty years, you'd think I'd be able to give a better account of myself. But there wasn't much to tell him, because there is no point. Surfing is a completely pointless exercise. Perhaps that's why I'm addicted to it. But he was right, my neighbour, God rest him. We go to the water every day and every hour we can. And most of what we do is wait.' (Introduction)

Publication Details of Only Known VersionEarliest 2 Known Versions of

  • Appears in:
    y separately published work icon Underline no. 1 December 2016 10684215 2016 periodical issue 2016 pg. 1-6
Last amended 1 Feb 2017 09:32:35
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